Jeans: What You Need

Jeans are funny.  There are an infinite amount of options in a variety of fabrics, cuts, styles, and price points.  So much so that it makes choosing the right option almost impossible. It’s an analysis-paralysis problem.  Too much data and not enough direction.

Allow me to try and help.  When I originally wrote this post, it was a dozen or so options, using price point as a denominator.  After I read it, I quickly concluded that all it did was contribute to the problem, rather than solve it.  So I decided to make a more focused post that addresses a more personal question: ‘What jeans should I get?’.

Taking that into account, I’ve listed my four(ish) options.  These are my favorite options out there right now, and the jeans that I’m wearing.  While I have more than this in my drawer, I can say that my super expensive selvedge denim gets almost no wear these days.  Maybe on a date night now and then, but that’s it.  Before we get to the recommendations, here are the keys to jeans, no matter the brand/style:

• Fit is most important.  When buying, make sure that the waist fits – it should be a little tighter vs. loose (size down if you are in between sizes) as jeans will stretch.  Everything else below the hip rivets is relatively easy to tailor.
• 100% cotton/natural fibers.  Avoid any ‘stretch’, as they’ll be trashed and completely blown out in a year or so.  One of the best features of jeans is the patina after wear, it doesn’t show up on stretch jeans (they are infused with plastic), and it takes a couple of years.
• Tailoring rules:
  • Get them as slim as you like, but avoid skin tight.  Start the taper at the hip rivet (where the pocket meets the seam)
  • For slimmer, dressier jeans, I prefer a 7-7.5″ opening with no break.  I’m not too fond of jeans that bunch at my ankle.  For reference, I know that I like a 39″ OUTseam for dressier jeans.
  • For slim-straight jeans that I wear with boots, I prefer an 8-8.5″ opening with a slight break.  This will fit over most of my boots, not be too short, and still have a tailored look.  I usually ask for a 40-41″ OUTseam.
• Avoid the dryer.  Jeans should be washed when they are dirty, not necessarily after every wear.  Turn them inside out, wash on cold with other darks (recommended detergent), turn the right-side out, dry for 5-7 minutes, shape them accordingly, then hang to dry the rest of the way (use these hangers).
• If your jeans get a hole in them, repairing is an option, but they’ll never be the same.  Best to replace…know when to hold ’em, know when to fold ’em.

To the jeans…

The $100 Pair: Raleigh Denim R100 Jeans.  I’ve been a Raleigh Denim guy for a long time, but haven’t enjoyed watching the prices for their selvedge denim go up (not exclusive to Raleigh – it’s the entire sector).  To address this, they released their R100 jeans, a standard, slim straight fit that is USA-made and only costs $100 a pair.  They are fantastic.  The denim is mid-weight and should patina very well.  I look at these as an ‘everyday’ pair of jeans.  Good with an oxford or a sweater, or with a t-shirt and New Balance.  High value.  Well worth a place in your rotation.

The Must Haves: Levis 501s.  But let’s be specific – the ALL COTTON, rinsed 501s.  Why?  Because they are super easy to take care of, and they cost about $50 a pair.  I’ve done the shrink-to-fit jeans, which are fine, but they take time to care for.  A little too much for me right now.  501s fall into the everyday jeans category for me as well.  I have a couple of pairs of these – one for boots and one for loafers.  Honestly, wearing Levi’s makes me feel cool.

“Fancy” Jeans: Naked & Famous.  Many years ago, on a whim, I bought a pair of these at an upscale department store sale.  I tried them on, and was really impressed with the fit.  For the most part, these are dressier jeans, and that’s how I view them in my rotation.  They release small batch options all the time – different denims, weights, and blends with cashmere/wool/etc.  I have a pair of 70% cotton 30% hemp that are some of my favorites.  Their Fit Guide is the best on the market – multiple fits for every body type, and they do a GREAT job of explaining it.  I get these tailored as dressier jeans – but it’s only a hem as the off-the-rack ‘Weird Guy’ fit is perfect for me.  From a cost perspective these will run a little more expensive, but in my opinion (and extensive experience), they are worth it.

Don’t Sleep On: Sid Mashburn Slim Straights.  Sid rarely misses, and I know he took his denim very seriously.  He ensured that they are just right…and they are.  It’s everything you’ve come to expect from Mashburn HQ.  Very polished on the outside, but under the hood is where they shine.  Great fit, well constructed, and good style.  I have a pair of the lighter non-selvedge jeans pictured below, and they get a ton of wear.  These are a hybrid for me – I can wear these with loafers and with *some* boots (Chelseas, Bludstones, chukkas, Wallabees).

Honorable Mention: Ball and Buck Denim (RIP).  It hurts that they quit making these…I have been lucky enough to find a few pairs of these on the secondary market and will continue to hoard.  I love them because they are cut like Levis’, but perform like Carhartts.  They are built like TANKS, and USA made.  The camo/orange stitching is a nice touch.

What did I miss?