When it comes to pants, my friend Bill knows what he’s talking about. We’ve been buddies for almost ten years, and this guy is a mad scientist regarding fabrics, cuts, fits, construction, and overall economies of cotton chinos. He’s been in the business for longer than he cares to admit (yes, that Bill).
Pennbilt is a company that he founded and runs out of Pennsylvania. It is the culmination of his years of experience, mixed with today’s market demand for well-fitting pants. I’ve covered the company in the past, but wanted to touch on two of their more popular cuts: the Plainsman and the American.
(L-R: Plainsman, American)
These two distinct cuts have a place in just about anyone’s closet. Let’s start with the Plainsman:
The Plainsman pants are an answer to the popular 5-pockets that are everywhere these days. The cut is what I’d call slim-straight, meaning they’ll work with just about everything: loafers, New Balance, Blundstones, and boots. They aren’t baggy in the backside or thighs and have reinforced pockets/etc. for the hard chargers. They are offered with even-numbered finished inseams for those ready to go off the rack.
Where these pants shine is in the fabric. It is a 96% Pima cotton and 4% stretch, but they don’t feel ‘stretchy’ at all – it’s more of a give vs. a stretch. I love the way they feel, and treat them like a pair of jeans. I wash them inside out in cold water, dry on low for ~6-7 minutes, then shape and hang to finish drying. 7 times out of 10 they don’t need to be ironed; just throw them on and go.
On the the Americans…ahh, the Americans.
These are the ‘khakis’ you wish you had all along. The Americans are cut in a ‘tailored’ way – which feels more like a straight cut vs. a full cut. Very appropriate in a business setting. To me, these feel more traditional vs. the Plainsman cut, but look great cuffed with a pair of loafers or chukka boots and an OCBD. The fabric is updated: 97% cotton and 3% stretch, which is just enough for some give when sitting down or standing up.
The 8.2 oz fabric weight makes these a year-round pair, and will only get better with age. For care, these take to washing very well, in the same manner as the Plainsmans. Dry cleaning will work, too. For sizing, these are cut about 1″ big, vs. the Plainsmans, which are pretty true to size. You’ll need to have these hemmed to the appropriate inseam as well.
These are cut and sewn in the USA, so wear them with pride!
You can see the whole Pennbilt collection here.
Based on this review, I tried on a pair of the Plainsman at The Sporting Gent in Charlotte. A little slim for my taste, but if you’re looking for a chino that drives like a five-pocket, then these are for you. Well made and the stretch actually makes sense. Looking at The Authentic version now; question is, am I willing to pay over $200 for a pair of khakis? Idk.