J. Crew has been a kite in the wind over the last five or so years. They’ve essentially become relevant only for the sales, which seemed like a 24/7 occurrence. The catalogs were nothing special. Mainly a rinse and repeat with a few pieces of interest and some catchy collaborations. Very ho-hum.
There has been some buzz about their new direction, so I was excited to see the Fall catalog when it arrived as week. Largely speaking, they are going for the ‘classic’ look that J. Crew was famous for back in the 90’s and 00’s, before ‘fashion forward’ and disposable apparel crossed paths. Great basics that fit well in the Ivy/Prep/khakis world (in the South – when Duck Head bowed out).
Back in the day…
This year they’ve done that. They’ve gone back to their roots, and I must say: I’m impressed. There are some hits, and some misses. The best part is that they’ve gotten away from their recent trajectory, and took a risk. Here’s the men’s stuff. And here’s the women’s stuff. Mrs. RCS gave it a passing grade, but I think that’s mainly because the Ivy/prep in women’s wear isn’t really a thing anymore.
Anyway, from the men’s perspecitve, here are some direct thoughts:
The Good:
The pink brushed wool sweater. So cool. I love these colors in colder weather pieces. They’re offering an emerald green version as well.
The duck canvas chore coat. Pieces like this become go-tos really quickly, especially after they earn some patina.
The mid-weight flannel work shirts. I have a few flannels that are basically bespoke dress shirts, most with a tighter plaid, and I wear them with jeans and a tan cashmere sweater. These are the everyday version, but the plaids are a little larger (which looks great) AND they offer a slim fit, which gives it a more professional look. And they are a VERY digestible $60/pop.
The Bad:
The baggy-fit pants. Don’t fall for it. They look frumpy. While I get that it was the style back in the 90s, the look doesn’t translate into today’s more tailored look. The baggy pants are the 2022 version of the pleated pants.
Sweater vests. I get the ‘classic’ look, but this tilts a little too ‘grandpa’ for me.
Painter pants. In no way, shape, or form do these work in any environment. And they haven’t since Old Navy stopped selling them in 2002.
Overall, I’d give the campaign a solid double. Definitely a step in the right direction. I really hope they build on this momentum.
What do you think?
Nice write-up.
Those of us of a certain age undoubtedly had a closet full of J Crew, but then two things happened: skinny clothes and Dave Matthews Band released “Don’t Drink the Water” and neither institution has been quite the same.
I stopped in my local J.Crew store at the mall (!) and ended up picking up a couple of their secret wash button down poplin shirts in classic fit. A great price point and will make for a nice weekend and at-home after work shirts. These will wear well under a sweater and will probably be my go-to casual shirts this fall/winter. The giant fit chinos were very large, even with a 33″ waist.
First, nice “Spectre” reference (kite in the wind), by the way.
Second, let’s nix the baggy pants immediately. I feel this is like a “gateway drug” to pants hanging off the ass and showing your under-drawers. These are going to be in the “Sale” section next to all the pajama collar shirts from spring/summer.
The Brushed wool crew sweater is the poor man’s version of the J. Press “Shaggy Dog” sweater and does give a bonafide “affordable” option to the classic. I think one of the sweater misses was the omission of the Merino Wool fine guage sweaters. I thought they were the best value in the industry.
The flannel plaid shirts are nice, however I have a closet of decade old J. Crew plaid flannels (and am set for life). I keep looking for those “special pieces” from the men’s side. The women’s side is much more chic and sophisticated than the men’s. I am inspired when I see the women’s posts on Instagram. Still missing the days of Todd Snyder and Frank Muytjen’s style.
I am optimistic and hopeful more special pieces will emerge.
I went into American Express debt for the first time ever via the J. Crew Fall 1988 or 89 catalog that arrived at my Southview Dr. rental house at UGA. Two pair of corduroy 5-pockets or whatever they called them, a Garrison belt (still have the buckle) for me, and a roll-neck sweater for my ladyfriend’s Christmas gift. Lessons in budgeting aside, I am a fan of J. Crew and appreciate the inclusion of many classics in their new line-up. The oversized pants look silly.
My main issue with J Crew is that they’ve lost their credibility and their quality is junk. I can find all of their pieces for better prices from more authentic sources. You’re charging $180 for a chore coat? Go get the LC King version for less… and it’s way cooler than a mall brand J Crew coat. They created the rugged preppy market and let everyone else run away with it. It’s cheap quality and if it isn’t 40% off, just wait until tomorrow.
Not to defend the “giant pant” but they do seem to style them as more tailored than you’d have found in the sloppier look that was popular in the ’90s. Still I wouldn’t recommend anyone outside the 5 boroughs try to rock them.
I still feel they need to address the collar size on all their shirts, if you’re not 5’10” 150lbs they are small – they used to be absurdly small but they are still small. As a guy who is 6’2″ 210lb most of them just don’t work for me – especially at full price.