The Ask Me Anythings I do via Instagram provides such good insights as to the general temperature of #menswear. A wise man said ‘you learn more by the questions you are asked vs. the answers given…’. That is absolutely the case when discussing shorts.
Based on the questions I get, the collective ‘we’ are very frustrated by the lack of 100% cotton shorts options. When preparing for this article, I did a simple Google search for “100% Cotton Shorts”. The results were depressing.
I’m not particularly dogging on tech shorts, but as with everything else in the #menswear arena, they have their place in the rotation. Tech shorts aren’t THE rotation, as it seems most stores/brands have leaned.
There seem to be multiple contributing factors to this. First, the athleisure ‘thing’ bleeding in. Second, tech is a little more ‘dad bod’ friendly. The elastic waist of the 2020s. Last, tech fabric has a better lifetime value for producers. By the questions I’m getting on all ‘stretch’ stuff, you readers correctly observe that tech/stretch/etc breaks down after a couple of years. Much sooner than organic fabrics, forcing the consumer to $replace$. And look what’s available on the market…
Smart companies will react. Given that Spring 2024 is all but finalized, it might not be until 2025 that we see cotton shorts become more readily available at multiple price points. Until then, here are some of my preferred cotton/cotton-ish shorts:
From Top Left:
1. Sid Mashburn Garment-Dyed Canvas Shorts: The best shorts on the market. 100% cotton, a mid-rise, classic cut, and off-the-rack 7″ inseam. The fabric patinas (a la old Stand Ups, which these were modeled after). Hard to beat.
2. Duck Head 7″ Gold School Chino Shorts: This iteration of Duck Head has really come into their own. Their Gold School line is classic, and only has a touch of stretch. Lots of good color options in their 7″ inseam option.
3. Taylor Stitch Foundation Shorts: A true, 100% cotton option in a classic cut. 8″ inseam, so easily tailorable to your preferred outseam. Not a lot of frills, just a pair of cotton chino shorts. How refreshing…
4. Marsh Wear Prime Shorts: I got a pair of these last year, and find myself reaching for them over and over. So much so that I just ordered a second pair. There is a little stretch, but they feel more like old-school canvas than anything else. More of a Saturday option (vs. the Golf Course). They just released a bunch of great colors, so get you some.
5. Ballin College Shorts: Ballin falls under the radar for their pants and shorts, but they really do a good job. I have a few pairs that I got from Miller Brothers, and had them hemmed immediately. I wear them quite a bit. They have a dressier look, so are good for the golf course and dinner dates.
6. Onward Reserve Staple Shorts: I was really happy to see Onward release a follow-up to their Piedmont shorts. These are 96% cotton and have a nice weight. Good price point for what you get.
7. The Sporting Gent Ridge Shorts: These have been a really good entry into the shorter inseam band – they are a classic cut with a little stretch, and the 6″ inseam hits just right. I like the canvas texture of the fabric. Wash inside out in cold, dry for 5 minutes, and then lay flat. Ready to rock.
8. Peter Millar Concorde Garment-Dyed Shorts: Similar to the Onward option, these are a 96% cotton short that are offered in a lot of different colors. Millar does it right, and it’s good to see them sprinkle some cotton options in their Spring lineup.
9. Vintage Polo Golf Chino Shorts: There is ALWAYS the option to search Ebay/Mercari/Posh for old Polo Chino shorts. I love the old crest and am not above ordering a pair, washing them, and having them hemmed to the appropriate outseam. They are often called the ‘best’ shorts for a reason…
What am I missing? What cotton shorts have you jazzed these days?
Great timing for this list. The last of my old school Polo shorts have been relegated to wear only around the house.
Nowadays it’s tough to find cotton shorts with a decent rise and wide enough leg openings.
I will add the Southern Marsh “regatta” shorts to this list. 6″ and 8″ inseams, 100% cotton, true classic fit, and a very agreeable price point.
Great list! Out of your lineup, which is most forgiving in the thigh area? Tired of so many brands being tailored in that area.
In my personal experience from the list above, go with the ridge shorts from The Sporting Gent. They do run large in the waist (or they did last year), so go down a size. Great casual shorts. Only negative is there is a label above back right pocket.
Thanks for the review. I plan to purchase a pair this season but as you mentioned, the label is almost a deal breaker for me. Perhaps RCS could steer TSG into something more subtle for next season.
I think you will like them. Very similar to the Patagonia standup shorts of yesteryear except not as billowy, but still plenty of crotch/ thigh room. FWIW and depending upon how much work you really want to do, the label is pretty easily removed with tweezers and small scissors. Just be sure to remove it before you wash the shorts so there isn’t a label “footprint”. I have found many of the pants/shorts I prefer do have labels, so I either remove them myself or send to a tailor to remove (~$15).
Will do, thank you!
You’re right, as usual. SKU offers 100% cotton bermudas in 6” and 8.5”, I think. Pricey, but my preferred choice.
On the casual side, would rec the Patagonia hemp shorts. While not 100% cotton, they are all natural materials. Lightweight and patina well
I consider chino shorts a staple, disposable clothing item. I wear my shorts in the summer HARD. Golf, yard, bbq, more golf. I can bring myself to spend $$ on most other items but not here. J Crew 7” chinos work for absolutely everything, on sale I can pick up a rainbow of colors for $30-$50, wear the hell out of them, and do it agin next year if I need to. They wear great with a Sid polo, a button down or a tshirt. Look great dressed up with loafers or down with flops. If I get bbq sauce on them they’re not so precious it hurts. 7” is good for me but I don’t blame guys for going longer. Shorter is approaching “inappropriate” status. Hanging brain is no bueno beyond a certain age. 😉
I’m with you, and these used to be my go-to as well. But about two years ago they switched from 100% cotton to ones with stretch and I’m just not sure I can bring myself to get them.
Lands end has 100% cotton twill shorts in 9″ or 6″. Granted, there is a no-iron coating, but they are very affordable and have pleated options.
Great post! I am someone that is always wanting 100% cotton shorts. I have some PRL ones that I have had for 10 years that just feel better and better. I often try and find NOS on ebay. It’s kinda funny reading some of the descriptions of the shorts that do have stretch. The duck head ones “with just a trace of stretch.” It’s like they are embarrassed to say there is stretch haha. Just take the stretch out then!
Genuine question. Did something change with the with Stand Ups other than eliminating the 5” inseam option? Because if you’re looking for a Stand Up replacement and ok with 7” inseams why not just buy Stand Ups?
In my experience, the waist sizing has been all over the place with the stand-ups over the past few years, and honestly I just gave up on them since I have to buy them online because no store near me carries them. Other than inconsistent waist sizing, the 7″ stand-ups are still really good.
Bought a couple pairs of shorts from Todd Shelton (Cafe and Twill) that are great and either 100% cotton or mostly cotton (96%). They’re not cheap but you can really dial in the fit since they’re MTO. Shorten the inseam, add some room to the thighs, life is good. Closest thing I’ve found to the old PRL shorts.
LWSUS shall forever be missed! Sid Mashburn and J Crew are really stepping up their games
I mentioned to Gregg at Jack Donnelly that he would be crazy not to make khaki shorts. He’s got everything he needs in place already, just shorten the inseam and price them a couple bucks below the pants. I would order a half dozen pairs right now.
So true. The closest I’ve found to Jack Donnelly in a short is All American Khakis, which are great chinos and shorts, made in Georgia. In fact, they’re so close to the older style JD chinos, they may have been the makers at one time.
During the Jack Donnelly hiatus a couple years ago, I actually went to their warehouse in August while I was in town for a business trip and purchased a couple of pairs there. Can confirm, they were the original manufacturers for Jack Donnelly.
The Marsh Wear Primes are incredible. I’ve bought them in just about every color. So breathable, and by far the most comfortable shorts I’ve worn since moving on from the Patagonia StandUps and old school Mountain Khaki shorts. The Primes keep their shape and fit. Contrary to the review, I’ve found them to be GREAT golf shorts.
I like Chubbies and Bear Bottoms for what they are. Lots of options lengths and styles/matierals.
I have been buying Ballin, Berle, and Bill’s. These pants and shorts are fully alterable and they sell them at the classic men’s shops in my city. I have Ballin Pima Twill, Berle Charleston, and Bill’s Vintage Twill pants and shorts. I like them all.